5 Things to Know About Retinoids

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Retinoids have been used to treat a variety of skin conditions since 1971, but for the first decades of their existence, they were only available via a dermatologist’s prescription. That all changed in 2016, when a retinoid product, Differin, first became available over-the-counter. Since then, retinoids, especially retinol, have been popping up in more and more skincare products. Retinoids are some of the most effective ingredients on the market, but there are a few things to know before you begin using them.

1. Retinol is a retinoid

   Put on your nerd glasses because this part’s a little dense, but it’s important to be informed, right? … Right?!? Okay! Retinoid is an umbrella term for a variety of products that feature active ingredients derived from Vitamin A, hence the name of the first branded retinoid product, Retin-A. Retinol is the best-known retinoid and the one that appears most often in over-the-counter skincare products. Other topical retinoids include tretinoin, alitretinoin, adapalene, bexarotene, and tazarotene, and they’re sold under a bunch of weird pharmaceutical brand names, which I’ll let you do the googling on, if you’re so inclined!

2. Retinoids are used to treat a variety of skin conditions

   The first retinoid product, Retin-A, was marketed toward people suffering from acne, and it was and is effective in treating that. However, when older people began using the product, they noticed that, in addition to clearing their acne, it also reduced signs of sun damage, smoothed wrinkles, and evened out skin tone — whaaaat?! Retinoids are kind of a miracle for ability to address so many different skin concerns.

3. Retinoids can be harsh

   Well, nothing’s perfect, is it? Retinoids effectively treat a range of issues, but they come with some risks. Their most common side effects include redness, itchiness, peeling, and burning. They also make skin more sensitive to the sun, so if you use a retinoid, be extra diligent about using SPF every day! Over-the-counter retinol products are less harsh than prescription products, but they can range in potency from .1% to 1%, so buyers with sensitive skin could be advised to start small to see how their face reacts.

4. Don’t use a retinoid if you’re pregnant!

   Here’s something that isn’t shared enough. I was about 3 months into my pregnancy when I learned that retinoids were potentially dangerous, and I tore my bathroom apart looking for offending products. Luckily, I wasn’t using any retinoids at the time — WHEW! Using retinoids during pregnancy can cause Vitamin A to build up in the system and can cause Vitamin A toxicity in the fetus, which sounds really terrible.

5. An alternative to retinoids has emerged

   In the late-2010s, a new ingredient called bakuchiol burst onto the market. Dermatologists say this vegan, plant-derived ingredient is similar to retinoids in the way that it encourages collagen production in the skin. In addition to smoothing the skin, bakuchiol has cause buzz because it does not have the side effects associated with retinols. Bakuchiol can be a great retinoid alternative if you have sensitive skin, are pregnant, or are a committed vegan (some retinoids are vegan, but many are not).

   Here are a few of our favorite over-the-counter retinoids:

   For high-potency and big results

Retinol/Bakuchiol Combo!

A great drug-store brand version

My favorite bakuchiol product!